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W
This reminds me of en episode some (UK?) TV show with brain teasers and facts about our brains
(Can't remember the name).
The episode was about how well (or poorly
) we actually remember stuff.
A few were told to draw a bike from memory, and then they made those bikes IRL.
- None of them were usable!
(Can't remember the name).
The episode was about how well (or poorly
) we actually remember stuff.A few were told to draw a bike from memory, and then they made those bikes IRL.
- None of them were usable!
C
Not sure what to do with it at the moment as it either needs work or I will let another take on the project. I have new parts for it including a crossover chainset somewhere safe.
Here is an interesting older bicycle I used to have. Raleigh Trent Sports. It had some go to it. Was a 3 speed hub geared bike with early 1950's plastic mudguards...
Here is an interesting older bicycle I used to have. Raleigh Trent Sports. It had some go to it. Was a 3 speed hub geared bike with early 1950's plastic mudguards...
C
Umm. They dont go well together do they?
I do prefer older bikes but good ones with quality frames and forks.
For some reason the plasticky feeling carbon fibre racing bikes I've ridden have not gelled well with me. They are certainly very light weight but the extra maintenance needed along with the extra care and attention required... They aren't a bike one can exactly neglect and abuse. (Not to say I abuse my bikes even when racing off road). I also feel they are overrated as they are no quicker then the best steel or aluminium bikes in ordinary conditions except their lightness will shave a second or two off a ten mile time trial, which to be honest, a little extra effort while training will get a good 20 seconds off ones time, so is it worth the extra? Another point to consider is most will buy entry level carbon fibre bikes which are not going to be as good as a high end aluminium bike which will sell at a similar price. A good steel these days (Though it has never been cheap) seems to have risen quick in price due to a lack of bulk purchasing which the material once had. For example, try buying a Reynolds 531 steel bike for less then £1000! And today's 531 tubes are only 531 with the main triangle as the stays and fork tubes are no longer made. Other steels are available. Some are like 531 but adapted so they can be welded so one can avoid using lugs. Others are massively developed with using computer technology to work out the best mix of materials to add into the steel at the molecular level to bring out the strongest and lightest frames. Though I do find the modern bike is improved, especially with the frame angles as far as the seated position while cycling is concerned, the old get up out of the saddle to climb a hill is almost out of the question as the modern angles dont like this. Look at old cycle racing and modern cycle racing to tell the difference. Modern racing they dont do it much! The downside by staying in the seated position for longer is ones legs just dont get a rest while climbing, as standing on the pedals uses different areas of muscle so it gives a small time for the muscles used while seated to have a rest!
It is noticeable when climbing steep hills like the one I need to climb to get back home! Modern bikes need lower gears to compensate for the seated position so the gear ranges are increased which means thinner chains and cassettes become standard (As freewheels tend to stop at 8 cogs due to space!) with wider frames to compensate for more gears. The wider frames are a compromise as a narrow frame width for narrow hubs is the most efficient. (Hence why a bike built as a single speed with a narrow hub has more go then the same bike built for multiple gearing but uses a single gear as the chain and seat stays come towards the rear hub at more of an angle which gives more flex in the area one does not want flex! (Between the hub and the chain set). Cassettes are also themselves twice the price of a freewheel of the same quality as the freewheeling mechanism is a separate part. A cassette spider without the freehub is about the same price as a whole freewheel! Not to say the extra wear one gets with thinner chains and smaller cogs used today!
I've found personally found that for day to day use, and also climbing a steep hill to get home, the best compromise to be the 21 speed. A triple chainset with a seven speed freewheel. I may be old fashioned in this, but it is the best compromise between a large gearing range and reliability along with durability. Sadly manufacturers tend to look at older technology in the today's cheaper end of cycling so they assume they can refrain from using durable metals when it comes to freewheels. They used to be high quality before cassettes took over the market.
Aluminium frames also vary in quality with the cheaper end hardly an improvement to the cheaper heavy budget steels, but ranging up to fine lightweight strong frames. They may not rust the same as steel, but they certainly corrode and one has to be aware of this. Aluminium is a material which a tiny deformation or the slightest crack can suddenly totally fail, unlike steel which hangs on in there for much longer! Aluminium needs to be kept very rigid to prevent flex as flex and aluminium are not pals... This does give aa bit of a harsh unforgiving ride over bumps, but aluminium does have (If a good grade of aluminium is used) lots of go! The main downside to aluminium frames are they had a very short warranty as they are not expected to be long lasting. Never had issues myself, but I've seen failures. Mind you, some steels had failures as have many carbon fibre frames as well. No bike manufacturer wants frame failures. They could build them to cope with anything, but the sheer weight tends to make such bikes almost unrideable!
Steel frames were once in the UK guaranteed for the life of the user as standard across manufacturers. Where I first worked in the early 1990's, a 1930's frame was returned which was bought second or third (Or maybe more) hand and the manufacturer (Dawes) gave the man a new replacement frame. Sadly since Dawes was taken over the lifetime guarantee was dropped.
I do prefer older bikes but good ones with quality frames and forks.
For some reason the plasticky feeling carbon fibre racing bikes I've ridden have not gelled well with me. They are certainly very light weight but the extra maintenance needed along with the extra care and attention required... They aren't a bike one can exactly neglect and abuse. (Not to say I abuse my bikes even when racing off road). I also feel they are overrated as they are no quicker then the best steel or aluminium bikes in ordinary conditions except their lightness will shave a second or two off a ten mile time trial, which to be honest, a little extra effort while training will get a good 20 seconds off ones time, so is it worth the extra? Another point to consider is most will buy entry level carbon fibre bikes which are not going to be as good as a high end aluminium bike which will sell at a similar price. A good steel these days (Though it has never been cheap) seems to have risen quick in price due to a lack of bulk purchasing which the material once had. For example, try buying a Reynolds 531 steel bike for less then £1000! And today's 531 tubes are only 531 with the main triangle as the stays and fork tubes are no longer made. Other steels are available. Some are like 531 but adapted so they can be welded so one can avoid using lugs. Others are massively developed with using computer technology to work out the best mix of materials to add into the steel at the molecular level to bring out the strongest and lightest frames. Though I do find the modern bike is improved, especially with the frame angles as far as the seated position while cycling is concerned, the old get up out of the saddle to climb a hill is almost out of the question as the modern angles dont like this. Look at old cycle racing and modern cycle racing to tell the difference. Modern racing they dont do it much! The downside by staying in the seated position for longer is ones legs just dont get a rest while climbing, as standing on the pedals uses different areas of muscle so it gives a small time for the muscles used while seated to have a rest!
It is noticeable when climbing steep hills like the one I need to climb to get back home! Modern bikes need lower gears to compensate for the seated position so the gear ranges are increased which means thinner chains and cassettes become standard (As freewheels tend to stop at 8 cogs due to space!) with wider frames to compensate for more gears. The wider frames are a compromise as a narrow frame width for narrow hubs is the most efficient. (Hence why a bike built as a single speed with a narrow hub has more go then the same bike built for multiple gearing but uses a single gear as the chain and seat stays come towards the rear hub at more of an angle which gives more flex in the area one does not want flex! (Between the hub and the chain set). Cassettes are also themselves twice the price of a freewheel of the same quality as the freewheeling mechanism is a separate part. A cassette spider without the freehub is about the same price as a whole freewheel! Not to say the extra wear one gets with thinner chains and smaller cogs used today!
I've found personally found that for day to day use, and also climbing a steep hill to get home, the best compromise to be the 21 speed. A triple chainset with a seven speed freewheel. I may be old fashioned in this, but it is the best compromise between a large gearing range and reliability along with durability. Sadly manufacturers tend to look at older technology in the today's cheaper end of cycling so they assume they can refrain from using durable metals when it comes to freewheels. They used to be high quality before cassettes took over the market.
Aluminium frames also vary in quality with the cheaper end hardly an improvement to the cheaper heavy budget steels, but ranging up to fine lightweight strong frames. They may not rust the same as steel, but they certainly corrode and one has to be aware of this. Aluminium is a material which a tiny deformation or the slightest crack can suddenly totally fail, unlike steel which hangs on in there for much longer! Aluminium needs to be kept very rigid to prevent flex as flex and aluminium are not pals... This does give aa bit of a harsh unforgiving ride over bumps, but aluminium does have (If a good grade of aluminium is used) lots of go! The main downside to aluminium frames are they had a very short warranty as they are not expected to be long lasting. Never had issues myself, but I've seen failures. Mind you, some steels had failures as have many carbon fibre frames as well. No bike manufacturer wants frame failures. They could build them to cope with anything, but the sheer weight tends to make such bikes almost unrideable!
Steel frames were once in the UK guaranteed for the life of the user as standard across manufacturers. Where I first worked in the early 1990's, a 1930's frame was returned which was bought second or third (Or maybe more) hand and the manufacturer (Dawes) gave the man a new replacement frame. Sadly since Dawes was taken over the lifetime guarantee was dropped.
