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My first attempt via seeds..,let's see what happens.
I can normally grow tomatoes indoors from seed and get them to plants that bear tomatoes..,,uts the traveling that has a negative affect on them....my husband doesn't water them as long as I tell him he ahould and the tomaoes burst.
Phil is right! Grow tomatoes and peppers indoors until you can sort out the weak and leggy ones, and keep the strong ones to at least 4 inches.
Now for the bad news. Tomato plants need about 2 FEET EACH on every side to properly grow. I am not sure how long that bed is, or how wide each row is from the others, but I have tried squishing them a foot and a foot and a half, and they don't do well in that little space.
Also 40 at night is cold for these kinds of plants, hence, growing them indoors for a month or three. Depending upon where you are.
As for Alaskan peas - are these regular peas or snow peas? Peas pretty much ALWAYS need some kind of staking - like a fence or netting. If you don't have them standing tall, they will rot and get dirty on the ground. Again, between rows, probably a minimum of 1 1/2 feet. But 2 feet is better. And never plant two rows of peas together, as you will not be able to harvest on the inside of the fences. Oh yes, they die easily if it gets hot. But you have planted them early enough that won't be a problem.
Also, tomatoes and peppers will need a stake or cage of some sort to support the plants when they get big. Last year, my tomatoes were almost 6 feets tall, and I had a terrible time getting at them to harvest the tomatoes, and they took over a corner of my garden. Which brings me to pruning. You MUST cut the little side shoots that come out from the main branches, sapping energy from the plant, and not producing hardly any tomatoes till it is too late. I'm very diligent in the spring, and usually by August they are out of control. What can I say?
As for liming tomatoes? Never! I gardened in an area of BC with ferns for undergrowth and firs and their acidic needles covering the area. I had the PH tested, and it was 4.5. Extremely low. I had fantastic tomatoes. Every year!
Another suggestion is to incorporate organic mattter into the soil. Your soil either looks clay-like or sandy. Both need a lot of humus. Sand has almost no nutrients, and organic matter, particularly compost would add a lot. Humus loosens up clay, giving it more drainage, and allowing the roots not to get choked out.
Which brings me to another reason to put in tomato plants, not seeds. You should dig a deep hole (2 feet) under each plant before planting. Put in some manure, compost, or other organic matter, including wood ash. Then the tomato roots will dig deep, giving them more water and nutrients rather than spreading out and taking over the garden bed.
I think it is great you are planting a garden, and each season as gardeners, we learn something new. I would recommend you put in a quick growing plant like lettuce or onions, and then when they are spent, you can put in a late crop of peas, or vice versa. In Edmonton, I could not do this, the season was so short and I was in Zone 2b. But in southern BC, Zone 6, and I am learning to garden all over again, and doing two crops of lots of veggies, although not tomatoes or peppers.
I've been gardening my whole life, from a long, long line of gardeners and farmers. There is no greater joy than growing your own veggies and eating them. Unless it is growing flowers and putting them into arrangements throughout the home.